Legend says Ha Long Bay was formed when a dragon descended to defend the coast, scattering jewels that became islands. Geologists offer a slower explanation: millions of years of rain and sea working on limestone, leaving towers, arches and caves that look different in every light.
Most cruises follow the same route from Ha Long City, and in the middle of the day the main channels can be busy. We prefer to sail from the quieter neighbouring bays of Bai Tu Long or Lan Ha, where the scenery is just as dramatic and the boats are few. In the early morning, the water is often perfectly still.
The best way to understand the bay is at water level. We kayak into enclosed lagoons that can only be reached at low tide, past fishermen who have lived on these waters for generations. Some floating villages remain, with houses, schools and dogs on wooden rafts that rise and fall with the sea.
Evenings on board are slow. Dinner is served on deck as the islands turn from green to grey to black, and in the morning there is tai chi on the sundeck before the mist lifts. One night is enough to see the bay; two nights is enough to feel it.
