Vientiane may be one of the most relaxed capitals in Asia. It stretches along a bend of the Mekong, with Thailand visible on the far bank, and its centre can be explored comfortably on foot or by bicycle. Wide boulevards from the French period are lined with cafés, bakeries and Buddhist temples.
Pha That Luang, the great golden stupa, is the national symbol of Laos and appears on its official seal. According to tradition, a relic of the Buddha is kept inside. The present structure dates from the sixteenth century, when King Setthathirath moved his capital here from Luang Prabang, and was rebuilt after damage in later wars.
Wat Si Saket, built in 1818, survived the destruction of the city by Siamese armies a few years later and is now the oldest temple in Vientiane. Its cloister walls hold thousands of small Buddha images set into niches. Across the road, Haw Phra Kaew, once a royal temple, now serves as a museum of religious art.
In the late afternoon, the city gathers along the Mekong. Families walk the riverside promenade, aerobics classes take over the open squares, and a night market sets up along the water. We usually end the day with a Lao dinner of laap, sticky rice and grilled fish, watching the sun go down over Thailand.
